Time for change


Just a bit of background…

Our Twinnies

I’ve been doing this crochet thing since 2011.  Full time.  My twins were born 2010 and most of the time I juggled between raising them and building a crochet business.                                                                                                                                                                                           I started by making the cutest little shoes and socks for my premature babies.  Yes, they didn’t last long as they grew at a tremendous speed, weighing 1.8kg and 1.9kg respectively at birth (and lost 100g each right after birth) and grew out of preemie clothes within the first 3 weeks.

The day she was born

twin babies btrix dsigns

My twinnies at about 2 weeks old

Crochet gifts and props

Except for these two little blessings, my whole life involved around crochet the past, almost decade.  After friends saw all these cute little things I crocheted for my twinnies and for friends that also started getting babies around the same time, I started getting orders for crocheted baby items from all over.  And not long after that I found myself making photography props for my friends, family and also photographers building their baby prop repertoire.

btrix dsigns

Btrix Dsigns

Photography props and baby and children items

Teaching Crochet

Just to mention that I’ve been a dressmaker and -designer all my life and taught sewing classes for some time as well and therefor I didn’t just get orders for cute crochet baby stuff, but my friends started asking me to teach them to crochet as well.  As they said: “You teach sewing, why don’t you start teaching crochet too?”.  And that is how my classes and workshops started.  I love being a crochet designer and teacher and that is what I am born to do.

Surene Palvie from YarnatZelle in her early crochet learning days with Btrix Dsigns

Surene Palvie from Yarn@Zelle in her early crochet learning days…

A growing little business

My hubby and I made the decision for me to be full time mommy and eventually take part in the homeschooling journey, whenever we would’ve start with a family.  I am committed to that decision, as it is what I always wanted to do and I believe it is my God-given responsibility.  So that means hubby is the sole breadwinner, taking care of our family financially while I take care of the kids. The thing is, that is not always easy to have one income and having an entrepreneurial streak I knew that I will build a business of some kind so that there could be another stream of income for whatever our needs are.  None the less, I built my little crochet business, while raising my little ones and doing both are not always easy.  There came numerous times that I had to slow down, give up on certain things, scale down as running a one-woman-business takes up a lot of your time.   I could never “build a dream”, but only sustain and maintain what I could manage while being full time mommy.  I think many momtrepreneurs can relate.

Time for change

This year there are many changes going to happen.  And due to these changes, I am making changes in my business.  I came to that famous fork in the road where, once again, I have to make decisions that is good for me and everyone else.  I made crochet baby items, started to design and teach classes, I compiled my own manuals for the latter from which my first published crochet book was born, I had a little home-based yarn shop which I had to “close down” when we moved from city-to-city just to start another one on smaller scale as soon as I settled in my new environment.  I started to dye my own yarn brand which also went through a few ups and downs as well.  I just published my second crochet book that focuses on Tunisian Crochet.  I moved my focus from conventional crochet to Tunisian crochet.

From everything I’ve done and been involved in, in the yarn industry, I am going into a total different direction of what I’ve been doing.  This is something I wanted to do for years now, but the book writing, the move, the kids and so many other things, took up soo much of my time to really explore this avenue.

What is changing…?

If you want know what is happening, then you better hang out here often.  Subcribe to my newsletter, so I can keep you up to date with all the changes and new things happening here.

Until the next time!

Enjoy this new journey with me!





How to determine yarn amounts for an item


I did a blog post on “How do I calculate costing on my crochet items?”, as so many ask me that question.

The other most frequent question I get asked:

“How much yarn will I need for making X,Y,Z?”

And my answer always, just to make the ladies frown is:

“I have noo idea!”


And really, I don’t know!

There are so many things that influence the amount of yarn you will use for an item.

The fibre content, the yarn twist, your tension, and the pattern you use, all this influence the amount of yarn you will need to make your item.

Colours of Grace

How does it all influence the yarn amounts then?

1. Fibre?

Some fibres are heavier than others.

For example, you will use way more cotton or bamboo than merino wool when making the exact same pattern, as cotton and bamboo are your heaviest fibers.

2. The twist?

Higher twist yarns are shorter than lower twist yarns of the same weight.

Example; Locally we have the Elle Premier Cotton brand, which have a high twist and comparing to our local Vinnis Collours Nikkim Cotton, which have a low twist, you will use MORE Elle Premier Cotton than Vinnis Colours Nikkim when making the exact same pattern.  When you read the yarn labels, you will also see that the Elle Premier Cotton is shorter that the Vinnis Colour Nikkim on 50g balls, to confirm this theory.

3. Tension?

Firm tension will use less yarn than loose tension.

4. The Pattern?

Different stitch patterns will use different amounts of yarn.

Example; Solid stitch patterns, firm textured patterns like popcorn stitches, puff stitch, bullion knot, cables, even the granny square, etc, will use more yarn that a lacy pattern or patterns with larger spaces between cluster stitches.  Your way of joining an item, will add to the amount of yarn used.

These are only the basic factors that will influence the amount of yarn used for a specific item.

Can you see how difficult it actually is to thumb suck yarn amounts for projects?

To estimate can put you way of track.  How can you purchase your yarn if I will tell you that you MIGHT need somewhere between 8 and 12 50g balls of yarn to crochet that baby blanket for your niece…(not knowing the EXACT VARIABLES in the pattern, your tension, etc that will influence the yarn amounts).  When you work in a solid colour, you have to consider the lot number, as you will have to buy ALL the yarn at once, to make sure you get the CORRECT amount of yarn for from the same batch.  Especially when you want to use the hand dyed yarns!

Let me give you some guidance in determining your yarn amount, BEFORE you purchase your yarn for your project(s).

What I need:

  1. A digital scale. (Seems like this becomes one of the important crochet tools?)
  2. Measuring tape
  3. Note book
  4. Pencil

Calculate Yarn Needs

I’m very sorry to say, that you will have to do the ONE thing all crocheters hate to do!!

1. Crochet a gauge swatch from the pattern you are going to use!!!

Yes, I know!!  I hate it too!! But if you want to be accurate, you HAVE to do it!!

This swatch will help you to get yourself familiar with your pattern, see where you are having trouble with the pattern, if it is a block blanket you want to make it will give you a better decision on your method of joining as this should be determined BEFORE you start your blanket!

2. Determine the finish measurements of your item.

If it is a blanket you want to make, decide before hand how big you want this blanket to be.  Length x Width

For garment pieces, the safest will be to draft the panels of the garment piece with its finished measurements.  You can do a square with the finished length and the bust or hip circumference so you can have the surface in Length x Width.

3. Measure your swatch.

Length x Width

4. Determine how many of the swatch blocks will cover the surface of your item.

5. Weight your swatch block.

6. Determine the weight of your final product by

The amount of swatch blocks that will cover the surface of the item MULTIPLIED BY the weight of the swatch block.

The answer will be the amount of yarn in weight that you will need to buy to finish your item.


  1. I want to make a granny square blanket for my double bed, so I will crochet a granny square in the size I want it.
  2. The double bed is 190cm(width) x 150cm(length) if I measure the mattress. Adding 20cm over hang on sides and the feet end.

(190cm + 20cm) x (150cm + 20cm + 20cm) = 210cm x 190cm

  1. Swatch measures 15cm x 15cm (using the yarn of my choice, having my average tension, not caring much about the twist of the yarn)
  2. Now I have to calculate, how many 15cm x15cm squares will fill up the surface of 210cm x 190cm.


Making it simple:

The length will be 210cm/15cm = 14 blocks to make up the length of the blanket.

The width will be 190cm/15cm = 12 block but 10cm short to 190cm.  12 block will give me a width of only 180cm.  Now I can decide it I am happy with a 180cm wide blanket, or would I like to add 15cm to make it 195cm rather?  Well, the latter is closest to my original measurement, so I would add another 15cm block to give me a 195cm wide blanket.  So I will use 13 blocks to make up the width of the blanket.

13 blocks for width x 14 blocks for length = 182 blocks that I will need to cover the surface of a 195cm x 210cm blanket.

  1. The 15cm x 15cm swatch block weighs 20g.
  2. 20g x 182 blocks = 3640g of yarn.

To determine the amount of 50g balls for instant: 3640g/50g = 72.8 50g balls (rounded off to 73 balls)


You will see that I did not make provision for the amount of yarn I will use to join the squares.

Granny JoinWhip Stitch

This is a separate calculation when you determined your method of joining.  Remember, some joining techniques will add to the measurements of your blanket, like the granny join, the flat braid, simulated braid or chain joining techniques.

The whipstitch, single crochet, slip stich crochet or crab stitch join, will keep the original finished measurements, as these are joining techniques that do not necessarily add to the measurements of your final item.

Calculating the amount of yarn using to join will expect very similar method of calculation.

Very simplified: Weigh about 4 of your blocks, join them in the method you chose, weigh them again and the difference between the two readings will be the amount of yarn you used to join 4 squares.

I’m sure you will be able to calculate the rest J


I hope this guideline will help you to make more accurate calculations of yarn needs, so you don’t buy too much or too less yarn for your products in the future.

This will also help you on budgeting for that special blanket you wanted to make for a very long time now.  When you know approximate how many grams of yarn you will need, you can determine how much it will cost.

Happy Hooking!






Design your own Beanie




I get weekly inquiries from ladies asking for help to crochet beanies.

Well, here I have a few guidelines made up ​​and at the end, you can find a Free Newborn Beanie and the link to my Granny style beanie available in my Ravelry online shop.
To design your own beanie sounds very challenging, but once you get the basic concept on how to crochet a flat circle, and you have the basic head measurements, it is very simple.

But first I’m going to give you a few rules for the use of specific stitches. The stitch you are using will determine how accurate your measurements for different sizes will be.

Let’s start with measurements:



Head circumference:

Measurements are taken with a measuring tape horizontally around the forehead.

Make sure the tape measure is horizontally parallel to take correct measurements.

Beanie length:

The length of the beanie is measured from the crown to the bottom of the earlobe.

I’ve seen beanie patterns on the web that are simply to short. It looks ridiculous when a beanie stops just above the ear. Make your beanie rather too long than too short. It is more practical, especially for children who are still growing.

Next is the flat circle or crown of the beanie:



How many times did you crochet a circles that simply refuses to lie flat?

It all depends on the kind of stitch you’re using and the amount of stitches worked into the foundation circle plus how you increase in each round.

What to remember?

  1. The number of stitches needed depends upon the height of the stitch. The taller the stitch the more stitches required.
  2. When you use the same stitch throughout your motif, the number of stitches to be added on subsequent rounds is the same for every round. That number is the same number of stitches used in round one.
  3. Increases should be made one by one and spaced evenly as possible around.

See fig.1.1 below

Table 1.1 Type of stitch versus amount of stitches versus increase for each round.

Each2nd Stitch
Each3rd Stitch
Each4th Stitch
ROUND 6 Increase
Each5th Stitch
sc 6 = 12 = 18 = 24 = 30 = 36 + 6
hdc 8 = 16 = 24 = 32 = 40 = 48 + 8
dc 12 = 24 = 36 = 48 = 60 = 72 12 +
tr 18 = 36 = 54 = 72 = 90 = 108 18 +
dtr 24 = 48 = 72 = 96 = 120 = 144 24 +

The most effective stitch that I found for successive size increase for beanies is the hdc (half double crochet).

The dc (double crochet) can be very variable in increasing, but I adjust my increase in the last round by skipping every 2nd increasing stitch pair, so instead of 12 increased stitches in that round, I will have only 6.

Figure 1.1 Equal increase in Double Crochet.

Circle Diagram 1.4 clear


The measurements for the CROWN will be as follows:

Head circumference minus 5cm = perimeter of flat circle.

Now for the sides:



To keep it simple, keep the stitch type you use for the crown. Once pattern stitches are incorporated, the size of the beanie around the head will be influenced. Some stitch patterns gives a tighter tension on the item, others give a looser tension.

For the sides; stop increasing, and just keep up with the number of stitches that you ended with in the last increasing round of the crown.

Continue until you reached the required length.

Here is a table with basic measurements of head circumference, crown length and circumference of beanie.

Table 1.2 Beanie measurements guide in centimeters

Size Head Circumference Hat Circumference Beanie Perimeter Length (crown to base of ear)
Newborn 34 31 29 13
3 Months 41 39 36 15
6 Months 43 40 38 16
12 Months 46 43 41 17
2 Years 48 45 43 18
3-5 years 51 48 46 19
6-10 years 53 50 48 20
Teen to Adult 56-61 51-56 51-56 21-22

Remember as I said at the beginning, this is just a guideline. You have to play with the yarn, hook size, type of stitch and stitch pattern, if you want to use it this way.

Play around, do not be afraid!

Here is a FREE PATTERN Newborn Beanie!

Here is my STYLE Granny Beanie in sizes Newborn to Adult !

I trust that this information is of value to you and that you will design your own beanie very soon.

Good luck and enjoy!



Translate »